Abdullah Alkhorayef

The year 2024 came to a close with many positives and only a few negatives for Saudi fashion. It was a busy year, as we have grown accustomed to in recent times, and here the word “accustomed” deserves emphasis. Riyadh Fashion Week stood as clear proof of the sector’s progress, where we witnessed remarkable development within just a single year. And the true star of this week was the Kingdom’s fashion community, whether those who attended, those who did not, or, unfortunately, those who were not invited. We will return to them later.

Despite all that the sector has achieved, I felt that something was missing. I cannot define it, yet it is a persistent and mysterious feeling. This feeling led me to postpone my first article with Mansoooj for several months, as I was determined to find this missing element. Although I did not succeed in doing so, this question opened up several important windows that must be explored, and it may lead me to uncover the secret behind this gap I notice in the world of Saudi fashion.

The events and occasions continued after Fashion Week, with trips and invitations to cover and launch the new collections of global brands. My journey began with Bottega Veneta during Dubai Art Week, followed by Yves Saint Laurent in Dubai, then Elie Saab’s showcase in Riyadh. After that, I traveled to Paris to explore Hedi Slimane’s final couture collection before the house transitioned to designer Michael Rider. Finally, I attended Dolce & Gabbana’s event in Riyadh, where a special collection was created for Saudi Arabia to celebrate the opening of the boutique in Diriyah.

On the subject of events, trips, and invitations, all of these expenses were covered by them. I did not bear any financial costs to explore Yves Saint Laurent’s new menswear collection, or to experience customer service at Celine and see how it stands out compared to other houses. (This type of experience is in itself a lesson, and an article, in how to attract clients.)

What does all of this have to do with what was mentioned at the beginning of the article? In truth, I realized that I had made a mistake many may fall into, which is that we unintentionally separate the fashion sector in the Kingdom from the global sector. I was searching for a complex key to understand the gap I referred to at the beginning of the article. Yet from my perspective, which remains open to critique or confirmation, it seems that the fashion sector is missing some of the basic elements found in any industry. This opens the way for a closer focus on analyzing the local ecosystem. It is a very simple idea, but I recognize the difficulty of applying it, and for that reason it must be stated.

For example, during Fashion Week I noticed the absence of clients, who are the essential element in any business. I do not mean the designers’ friends or family members, but rather the engagement with all categories of customers, from ordinary buyers who are loyal to Saudi brands, to store owners and boutique tenants. There are also many other parties that must contribute to strengthening our industry, such as the Ministry of Industry. These parties must step up to support the sector and contribute to increasing non-oil income.

We also need to develop the essential aspect that should already be taking shape, and to change what we have become “accustomed” to in the Saudi fashion sector. Saudi brands must move into reality by opening physical stores and establishing a presence in real markets, not only on social media and online platforms.

We must also boost real advertising in newspapers, magazines, on the streets, and everywhere else. We have moved past, or should move past, the stage of pop-up ads and social media platforms like Instagram. Bottega Veneta did not invite me “for the beauty of my eyes,” as our saying goes, and Celine would not have covered the cost of a three-day trip to Paris if it did not recognize the challenges facing the fashion sector today and the importance of the brand reaching the customer rather than the other way around.

These initiatives were not present in the past, yet they have now become indispensable. Global brands have shifted more attention toward customers in the Middle East after experiencing declining sales in Europe, China, and the United States. As a result, their strategies to attract clients have become more effective. In short, Saudi Arabia’s fashion sector is now set to face strong competition from international markets over the luxury customer. This makes it essential for designers to realize that challenges will intensify, particularly in the luxury segment. Even so, the outlook remains promising, since competition is a positive force for the development of any sector.