Factories have their own unique language that anyone working in fashion must learn and understand. Any mistake in this language, or ignoring it altogether, can cost you dearly. To help you avoid the common pitfalls at the start, here are eight rules I consider fundamental when dealing with factories.

You’ve just come up with a design idea, sketched it out, defined the details, chosen fabrics and materials, tested a small batch with the neighborhood tailor, sold it, and felt ready to take your game to the next level: factories and mass production. This is where the real battle begins, and you’ll hear complaints and frustrations from every designer or brand owner who has walked this path before you.

But like anything in life, success comes with instructions. Once you understand the language of factories and the rules that govern the process, you’ll be able to avoid the mistakes that drain your budget and your spirit. Most importantly, you’ll be one step closer to success.

Here are the key points that will ensure your creative vision turns into a successful collection.

1. Never Place a Bulk Order Without Requesting a Sample

No matter how much a factory tries to convince you that there’s no need for a sample and that you should jump straight into mass production, beware of this trap. Requesting a sample is absolutely essential. It gives you the chance to inspect the product before full production. Check the fabric quality, stitching, and colors on the sample. If there are any flaws, you can fix them before moving on to the bulk order. This reduces losses and improves the quality of the final product.

2. Split the Payment Into Installments

In mass production, agreeing to pay part of the amount upfront and the rest upon receiving the order protects you from financial risk, especially if it’s your first order with the factory. If the product does not meet the agreed standards or if there are delays, you can negotiate improvements or recover the remaining amount. Typically, the deposit is set at 30% or 50% of the total amount to begin mass production.

3. Start With Small Quantities

At the beginning, focus on producing small quantities to test the market. Large orders increase the risk if sales are not sufficient, and excess inventory can sometimes lead to financial losses. For example, you might start with three or four different designs at most, and place an initial order of 50–80 pieces, while agreeing with the factory on the possibility of increasing the order if all items sell out.

4. Don’t Be Late

Plan the production process well ahead of the season. The timeline should start 4 to 6 months in advance to allow for sample testing, shipping schedules, product photography, and marketing. You should also factor in a possible delay of 2 to 4 weeks from the factory in either production or shipping.

5. The Tech Pack Is Your Key

The technical file, or tech pack, is the factory’s complete guide. It includes the design, measurements, colors, and fabric types. Without it, production errors can happen, such as using the wrong materials or incorrect sizing. The advantage of having a tech pack is that it protects both you and the factory: if the factory makes a mistake, you can request a new sample free of charge because they did not follow the file you provided. You can create the tech pack yourself using design software or even Excel, or you can rely on a specialist or technical designer to save time and avoid mistakes.

6. Random Inspection

Quality control is a continuous process. Check the initial samples, then carry out random inspections during production to ensure specifications are being met. These steps help reduce defects in the final product. Test fabric quality by washing it according to instructions, and check the zippers, the printing or embroidery, the cleanliness of the pieces, and even their smell.

7. Don’t Rely on Just One Factory

Relying on a single factory is risky. If the factory faces issues such as delays, shutdowns, or other disruptions, having multiple options ensures business continuity and smooth operations. It is essential to have an additional factory as a backup plan.

8. Hidden Costs

Hidden costs can put a heavy burden on your budget if you do not account for them from the beginning. Always make sure to include all expenses related to the production process in your financial plan, such as local and international shipping, customs, taxes, and packaging. In addition, consider the possibility that you may not be satisfied with the executed samples and might need to redo them, which can be costly, especially if the number of pieces is large. All of these details must have a dedicated budget.