Every year on February 22, Saudis celebrate Founding Day, marking the establishment of the first Saudi state in 1727. One of the most distinctive aspects of this national holiday is the “Saudi Dress” celebration, where people across the country express their joy by wearing traditional garments such as the embroidered iqal, a black headband for men, or beautifully adorned dresses for women. None of these pieces are unfamiliar or forgotten. Saudis still wear the same attire their ancestors once did, with only minor changes to the thobe, the men’s long robe. The shemagh, iqal, daglah, and the Hasawi bisht remain present, passed down through generations, while women continue to wear their traditional attire with pride. This continuity in dress, this identity, has never been lost. As Rahaf Al-Qunaibit describes it, it is “the secret behind the survival of this national identity.”
Every piece we wear tells a story, and every thread embroidered carries our past through time. Clothing has always been part of a nation’s collective memory. Some nations held onto it as a shield against cultural erasure, while others preserved it as a natural extension of their heritage.
In Saudi Arabia, we possess treasures of traditional dress. Take the bisht, for example, which originated in Al-Ahsa. It was once an essential garment for every man, who would never step outside without it. Over the years, its everyday use declined until it became reserved for formal occasions, while the ghutra and shemagh became essential pieces men wear daily.
To support this craft locally, fabrics were imported from around the world, from Indian silk that added luxury to the thobes, to Egyptian cotton that formed the foundation of everyday wear, and even the “Marikin” fabric imported from America, which was widely used in tailoring men’s garments. Yet despite importing fabrics, the clothing itself remained Saudi at its core, as the tailoring and design were done locally. This created a blend of global quality and authentic Saudi identity.
Speaking to Mansooj Newsletter, Dr. Laila Al-Bassam explained: “The Arabian Peninsula never experienced colonial rule, nor was it forced to adopt an imposed identity that demanded cultural resistance. On the contrary, Saudi Arabia was a source of dress that transcended its borders to become part of the wider Arab landscape.” Dr. Laila Al-Bassam is a professor of fashion history and traditional textiles at Princess Nourah University and an expert on local heritage. She has co-authored several books, including Traditional Costumes of Saudi Arabia, which documents the history and intricate details of local attire.
What is striking about the continuity of Saudi dress is that it has always been an integral part of daily life, adapting naturally with time without needing to be defended or revived. While some nations fought to protect their culture from colonial influence, Saudis never faced that threat. Their culture remained alive and deeply rooted. Writer Abdulaziz Al-Suwaigh affirms this, saying, “Traditional dress is part of Saudi national folklore and represents an important aspect of our cultural heritage.”
Unlike other nations whose traditional clothing became a form of resistance to colonial rule, Saudi Arabia never had to use dress as a tool of defiance. In India, for example, garments like the sari and kurta became emblems of cultural resistance against British colonialism. In Algeria, French attempts to impose language and culture were met with people who held tightly to their traditional clothing. The Algerian caftan and haik became symbols of women’s identity, while the burnous distinguished men.
In Saudi Arabia, however, there was no need for such resistance because traditional clothing was never under threat. The shift toward modern attire was not imposed externally but evolved naturally as society developed.
Despite colonial ambitions, especially given the religious significance of Mecca and Medina, Saudi Arabia was never colonized. This was not a coincidence. Historian Dr. Rashid Al-Asaker notes that the strong bond between the Saudi ruling family and its people formed a solid shield against external control.
As modernization accelerated, traditional clothing began to lose its place in daily life. Yet it did not disappear. It continued to be worn on special occasions and national celebrations. With the launch of Vision 2030, interest in heritage identity has reemerged, and young Saudis are reviving traditional clothing in modern ways.
Saudi designers have succeeded in redefining and popularizing these garments to reflect contemporary Saudi taste. In the field of abayas, the bisht abaya has become one of today’s most popular designs, even though it was originally a men’s formal garment. The brand Abadia reintroduced it in a modern form within its Ramadan and Eid 2024 collection. Meanwhile, Saudi designer Mona Al-Shibl drew inspiration from traditional henna patterns worn by women in the Najd region and presented them artistically in her latest collection at Riyadh Fashion Week.
Today, Saudi fashion remains a living heritage, blending authenticity and innovation, preserving its cultural identity across generations.
